It's just so easy to visit Nôtre Dame at 8 am before it starts heaving with tourist crowds. Metro to Porte de Vanves for the local flea market. It looks deserted exiting the station and I fear I've gone to the wrong place. viewing cars lined up in the distance I make way hesitantly to discover the puces stretching into the distance and gathering numbers of people. Bric-a-brac, decorative items, crystal and glassware, silver, small furnishings, prints, junk; you could find almost anything here including small candlesticks from €10-€150. It's quite a lot of fun looking through everything and trying some haggling Paris style. Limiting purchases is the difficult thing though a few brass candlesticks (that are 'ancien' and 'original 16th or 17th century') are the pick of the day. The metro then takes me to the renowned marché aux puces de Cligniancourt. Fortunately I'm not dressed like a homey-gangsta (apologies if they are not the correct terms) so am not accosted to buy a new wardrobe of Gucci, LV and Prada leather and accessories. The outdoor/lane way 'antique market' is just sad. So much stuff, some of it is amazing, some totally ott and much rubbish, largely outrageously overpriced. All the vendors ate having lunch together. I suppose there's nothing much else to do when no one's shopping. Heading back to the station I stumble across another outdoor area which is funky and has great pieces; the vendors are convivial and while there are some chandeliers and gorgeous sunburst mirrors I would love to have, the logistics of getting that stuff back to Australia was too painful a concept so left with some vintage jam pots. The brass candlesticks which I bought the other side of town for €10? They were asking €60 at Cligniancourt. "Outrageous!"It was Trinity Sunday eve. I suppose I should have attempted the journey to La Trinité but the sudden downpours and increasingly leaking umbrella made me decide otherwise. I instead went to the local church on Ile St Louis. It is a breathtakingly beautiful church - so elegant, vast yet intimate with gorgeous chandeliers and organ. I can just barely follow certain phrases through the sermon though it is clear the old priest loved God dearly and enriches the experience. Dinner near St Michel... tourist trap alleys with set menus from €10 (yes indeed). Nothing seems really that appealing here. I settle for a restaurant where the elegant lady owner throws in a glass of the house wine. Frogs legs, rump steak and crème brulé €15 I think it was. Definitely got what I paid for; or maybe not even. Edible, but not worth eating again. Readers: be very careful around this area, otherwise avoid!
Trinity Sunday. St Nicholas de Chardonnet. I had been looking forward to this for so long. A society church full of grass roots, well bred, highly educated, very attractive conservative Catholic parishioners. Completely full masses one after the other. A very sexy grand organ.
It was respect and reverance to God that should be seen in more 'modern' churches; this ' traditionalism' is totally relevant for today. It was also mother's day in France. Such beautiful roses were in the shops and baguettes were being bought by the dozens for family lunches. I take a long walk past Les Invalides where they were pumping out some awesome dance music for something that was going on, through to somewhere in the 7th for an amazing lunch. I had assumed that all those bistros with tourists sitting outside preening themselves were all tourist traps. Perhaps they are, but I had an amazing meal - confit de canard with scalloped potato fries and salad - a ridiculous €12. It was so good, great bistro food just demonstrating how we pay so much for food in Australia (well, Sydney and Hobart at least).The iconic Tour Eiffel stands proudly in the Champs de Mars yet I still don't venture to climb it. Third time round and I still haven't made it to the first level. Crossing the river I become engulfed in a major gathering. Protesters; political unrest; family rights and protection of children? I'm not quite sure what it's about but the tear bombs (from the very few naughty people) cause some alarm in what generally feels like an exciting and positive rally. When the riot police come along then the questions fly. I skeddadle to the Champs Elysees where the crowds seem oblivious to the significant police presence. Might I just add that the riot police outfits are so fantastic they are rather Jean Paul Gaultier; I was too afraid to ask for a photo for fear of reprimand or incarceration. It was a brisk walk back to the island before heading back to St Nicholas de Chardonnet for an organ recital. It felt a world away from the craziness that had just leisure been encountered. A walk past Place de la Bastille, through Place de Voges into the Marais was what the doctor ordered. It was heaving with all the local trendies of the area and the super cool boutiques were enticing. Homewares and fashion moved to kebabs and Jewish cakes and desserts. I had no idea; no wonder everyone raves about how great the area is. After my mega lunch I opt for a simple meal. Lasagne. Yes. Sad but true. Hey, it was quick and easy. €9.50

Friday started with an amazing bright blue sky. This quickly turned to showers and freezing conditions, ruining umbrellas. A mega walk from the island, weaving across bridges from the left and right banks, up to the Opera and grands boulevards to la Samaritain (too overwhelming even for a seasoned shopper like myself), Printemps (more of the same, really), to fantastical Fauchon where I indulged in the finest, costly éclairs and salivated lustfully over everything else), through to the Champs Elysees (where many of the battered crowds were causing havoc) to l'Arc de Triomphe. The idea was to continue to la Tour but it was decided a brisk walk back to the island through the Tuileries and past the pet and flower shops was the more appropriate direction given the state of rain soaking and frozen hands.
Bath time.Dinner night 2 (Le Marais) . Fish (pickled or preserved I'm not quite sure), some crazy pork sausage and crème caramel €16.50. Passable, good value.

Paris. The ever eternal, beautiful city. Pity about the weather this time around. Drizzle to heavy rain, freezing cold, further Arctic conditions. In one sense it does lessen the tourist crowds... I'm glad it's not a first time visit otherwise it would be so miserable. But walking the cobbled streets is still enchanting, examining the menus of the numerous restaurants (and the unfortunate large number of closed premises) and the funky and charming boutiques is sufficient reason to brave the weather. A trudge through the old haunt of St Germain brought back old memories of the first visit staying on Rue Monsieur le Prince, and enlightened new discoveries such as the delightful Cire Trudon shop and wickedly amazing patissiers.The long evening light, even through the cloud and grey mist is so beautiful and eating late (for me, not the Continent) is no bother at all. The studio is on Ile St Louis just past the gorgeous local church far away enough from the maddening crowds and incessant American accents. Third floor, exposed wooden ceiling beams, Louis furniture with luxuriant curtains and super comfortable bed. The bathroom is disappointing - only because there is not a shower fixture and the shower arm attached to the bath is only suitable for migets. Do inadequate facilities such as this make it too frustrating to have a daily wash and contribute to the reputation of the stinky, unclean French?!
Or rather, are the French born with cigarettes in their mouths? Virtually everyone, young, old, the glamorous and the barely presentable - everyone seems to be sucking on cancer sticks as if their lives depended on it. Along footpaths are the worst, I find it amongst the most abusively arrogant things to have no consideration for whom the exhaled smoke attacks. First night. Mussels (yes they were tiny and not the best quality - they are right in Bruges), confit de canard and creme brulé. €17. Bargain.

My heart skipped a few (hundred) beats when the train pulled into Bruxelles Midi. Sure it's just the train station and doesn't speak for the city but the surrounding suburbs and dull countryside was extremely uninspiring. I wonder if the fog made it appear better......Wednesday brought on something like a resurrection in the old city. When there was almost no one around Monday and a few scattering of tour groups on Tuesday, market day (and perhaps the end of the Pentacost long weekend) has resulted in a flooding of people into the market square and throughout the city. Marvellous sunshine breaks the latest few days of drizzle and cold wind and enlivens spirits. There are a plethora of produce sellers in the market square, butchers, cheese makers, bakers and sweet makers. The flower market is gorgeous. Roses, peonies, lilies, beautiful bouquets and potted plants -so cheap compared to Australian prices yet apparently they are the most expensive they have been recently - mother's day in France and bad weather imports have skyrocketed prices from say, €6 to €10 for 10 stems of roses. Everyone here seems so house proud and are stocking up on flowering plants. Others are scoffing down freshly made waffles.It's bizarre what good weather can do; it's bizarre what an influx of tourists can do - while the past day and a half I had essentially, the entire city centre to myself, I now have to jostle through crowds and have to share the previously deserted streets with so many others. The canals are odiferous and I hate to imagine the state of the city in high summer. ...Amazingly I have not been lured by the chocolates or the waffles. What's wrong with me?!!
I have however, been having fantastic meals at the hotel du Passages. The word is that it's not moules season so the tourist restaurants are not serving the best quality. I in stead have a rack of pork spare ribs (only €14.50) which are amazingly good... the next night traditional Flemish beef stew, and the third night traditional Flemish fish stew. With fritjes and mayo, with a beer (I am not beer connoisseur but I am advised to try the house exclusive Fort Lapin) and that's around €20 each meal. Excellent value, wonderful atmosphere and convivial staff - perhaps a cop out eating there each night (the other places I wanted to go to were closed because of the long weekend!) but anyone in or travelling to Bruges definitely make your way there!
Thursday morning and I say good bye to De Corenbloem, the wonderfully charming and warm hosts and their beautiful dog; the most luxurious bed and my pheasant eggs (I can't get over how fantastic they are) and jump on the train to Paris.
Why is the weather so bad?!!
Boarding the Thalys train to Paris is shambolic... it's a free-for-all fighting to get onto the train. The weather is slightly improved

When I first came to Bath in 1999 I think it was, Mark, my brother in law drove my mum, sister and me from London in a tiny A-class. As we skirted around the periphery of the city the splendour of Bath lay in the distance, a golden, honeyed hue of Georgian terraces and the spire of the Abbey reaching high; I felt it was one of the most beautiful cities on earth. 

Bath is one of those eternally beautiful and perfect cities with the decadence of Georgian elegance so richly and sumptuously intact. 

American woman #1
we went to see les mis at the theatre (Broadway show)
American woman #2
and we saw les mis at the movies
American woman #1
Hey so did I. you know I think the movie must have copied the Broadway version because the storyline was so similar it was almost the same
American woman #2
you know I think you're right. ..

I don't know why it's taken me so long to visit Cambridge. Why had it always been the thought that Oxford was first preference of the two?
Despite the Arctic conditions (poor choice of day but we all know that's a gamble in England) Cambridge proved itself to be a beautiful city, it's rich tapestry of collegiate history and it's renowned musical tradition make it a remarkable place. Colleges are more free to look at than on Oxford and might I just say that the gardening efforts are out of this world. I am utterly lustful of Cambridge's prefectly manicured emerald green lawns and garden beds still blooming with tulips;  and especially Clare College's coup of obtaining the riverside garden plot from King's which is just unspeakably beautiful.

Many thanks to Greg for a wonderful tour through the Clare college.

And then it was back to London for a concert of Purcell in his own church. The choir produced such an amazing sound, the orchestra had a bit of an unravelling towards the end but it was magical being there listening to music that was born for that same place.

Sitting waiting for the train to Bath brings back so many memories. Many of my London stays revolve around fighting through the tube or running for the train to head out of London. It's far more familiar than Russell Square and fortunately without lift access to and from the platforms which cause pandemonium among the American and Eastern European students.

Yesterday's adventures around the city took me first to Spitalfields Market. Thursday antique day is always a laugh and feels like old friends catching up again. This was the place, after all, where I purchased my vintage Belgian gilt sunburst mirror and carried all the way home to Australia. The usual suspects were there and there were plenty of decorative pieces to tempt the eye, most notably David and his antique prints (I believe I have bought some from him online which we had a chuckle about) and a pair of silver candle sticks which I suggested a purchase price of £12 in stead of £18. Plus a stall bursting in sweet goodness from which I had to eat a muffin and slice of brownie and an Eccles cake (which is now my snack on the train).

A walk to the river via St Bertolphs, tk maxx (yes I know) and one of my favorite churches St Magnus the Martyr.

It was bright and sunny and the jacket came off and the sunnies went on... for 15-30 minutes. A treat nevertheless.
Borough Market was heaving, and why not. Very attractive suits having cheap lunches and eating foreign food - honestly. The market is superb and the produce is amazing - artisan cheeses, breads and pastries, farm fresh vegetables and meats and fish. Totally yummo.

Walking the South Bank dodging all the French and Italian school kids and tourists, I bypassed the Tate modern and took the Millennium Bridge to St Paul's but continued the walk through to the Embankment. Engineering marvel as it is, there is that building which I completely adore but don't actually know what it is. High Victoriana with ott Gothic decoration, it's a stunner among the riverside skyline.

Houses of Parliament, through to Oxford St - I dared enter Primark and proceeded to fight my way through the mountains of clothes - was that really the collapsed Bangladeshi factory churning out cheap stuff for the high street? Well I walked out with chinos and jeans so judge me how you like... it was a little embarrassing carrying a Primark bag down New and Old Bond streets.

An Indian meal in London (I suppose it would be expected) and a wander through Soho (eugh) drew the night to a close; the electricity still burning the night sky...